We left the Saintes and had a good sail down to Portsmouth, Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica. This is on the NW end of the island. The first thing that you see going in is a boat boy coming to ‘offer assistance’. This is Titus, driving the skiff Lawrence of Arabia. In the old days these guys were aggressive and obnoxious – to the point that people stopped coming. They organized themselves into a cooperative, PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Service, I think). The group is really together now. They are helpful, professional, low-key, low-pressure and they run a security patrol of the anchorage at night. There main money maker is arranging island and river tours.
The island is extremely hilly with steep drops off to the ocean. We setup a taxi tour to circumnavigate the north and central part of the island with new friends Jean and Art, on Samana.
The island has the tallest mountain in the eastern Caribbean. The windy roads cut across the island through small villages where vegetable, fruit and banana plots are all around. The island is one of the poorest in the eastern Carib, but the people are friendly, the island and roads are clean and there’s no obvious poverty. Crime is relatively low here.