Monday, June 28, 2021

Seychelles Prep

 

View from Port Launay anchorage

We've been busy doing boat projects here on the island of Mahe, Seychelles. Not the least of which is dealing with Seychelles paperwork. When you arrive by yacht you generally get a 30-dy visa for the crew and the boat gets 30 days in the country. To keep the boat in country longer you need to get a Temporary Import Permit (TIP). This requires providing a lot of additional paperwork, including proof of boat insurance and a  builder's certificate. A a local agent s required to get to the finish line. We are in process. We got an email that said our TIP was approved and attached. The attachment was an official looking document with official stamps on it. The only problem was the TIP had an expiration date of June 30, 2021.  We called our agent about this and got the explanation that this was just the first phase of getting a longer term TIP. Now she will apply to extend the TIP to cover the duration of our expected stay.


Another big project was replacing our 11 year old Rolls-Surrette AGM house batteries. We found some Victron AGM batteries in a local chandlery. We moved Georgia into the Eden Marina and I hired a couple of  the marina dock workers to pull the old batteries out and put the new ones into place. These batteries weight about 150lbs each  -- basically back breakers. Much better done by young guys. Even for them there was a lot of: "un, deux, trois - allez!"

We did get to spend a few days sailing around the northern end of the island. The picture at the top of the blog is from Port Launay, a nice marine park, if a bit rolly at anchor. Above is small islet of the end of the island. These photos were taken during a bit of inclement weather, generally it's been sunny with brisk SE trade winds each day. A welcome change from the heat and humidity of the eastern Indian Ocean.



We also stopped at Baie Beau Vallon. This place has magnificent long, white sand beach. I'm sure it is a bit of a zoo in normal tourist times, but in Covid Season it was mostly empty. We did get some rain and low clouds coming off the mountains, along with a swell coming through the anchorage that made for an uncomfortable sleep.


On the way back we past these two Sri Lankan fishing boats that are tied to a Seychelles Coast Guard cutter in the quarantine anchorage. They were caught illegal fishing within the 200 mile Exclusive Economic Zone of the Seychelles. The Seychelles do a lot of patrolling their waters both for illegal fishing and to try and interdict the heroin trade from the Middle East. The heroin comes in both for local consumption and for transportation to mainland Africa.

The country makes good money in leasing out fishing rights. The red ships above are 295ft Tuna Purse Seiners. They are a non-stop feature of Port Victoria and bring in tons and tons of tuna clear cut from the oceans every week.

Georgia is now tied up in Eden Island Marina and we are getting ready to do a 6-8 week tour of the US. Pick up our car, get some doc appointments done, store stuff that came out of our now sold trailer and visit family and friends. First up is Bellingham. Before we can board our Emirates flights, 4 hours to Dubai followed by 14.5 hours to Seattle,  we had to get our PCR tests. Neither one of us cried as much as the 2 and half year old who went in before us.

Paul



Monday, June 14, 2021

Chagos with Pictures (part 2)

 


After a week moored off Boddham  we moved down to Fouquet. For most of our time Chagos the weather was good, but we did have the occasional squall come through.  (We anchored in two places on Ille Fouquet. 05*20.645S,072*15.484 in 15ft on sand. This end of the island had less swell making though the pass. Later we anchored at the larger sand area at 05*19.961S,072*15.87Ein 15 ft on sand)



Not all is easy going in Chagos. This is the wreckage of a large cruising catamaran. In the foreground is the tall mast laying in the clear water.  Sometime, apparently after this wreck, BIOT started requiring Wreck Removal Insurance prior to issuing a permit to visit.


Red footed Boobies are everywhere on the islands.

While Chagos has experienced coal bleaching incidents similar to the Maldives, the general health of the reefs and abundance of coral seemed very good. It's really nice to be diving with such a variety of corals an coral colors. The water clarity was not crystal clear while we were there, but fine for our daily snorkel. Water temperature is perfectly legal in my book, we're guessing it was mid 80sF!


No shortage of Parrot fish.




Quite a garden

This is an 18-20 inch long Giant Clam shell. I remember watching some black and white movie as a kid where the hero got his arm stuck in a Giant Clam. Been leery of them ever since.

This is a live Giant Clam almost as big. It turns out Giant Clams aren't big threat to skin divers, as they are plankton eaters.



Add a little red to the coral colors


This coral colony is probably 10 or 12 feet wide.

Got my eye on you!


Turtles cruising by weren't too concerned about us.

A little closer view

A juvenile snapper of some sort.
Banner Fish enjoying their coral surroundings




The beginning of a nice forest

Tide pool starfish

Practicing taking selfies on the sandbar while shell hunting

Had to stop and investigate this large buoy washed up on the beach. Looks like it may have come from some Naval exercise down in Diego Garcia. Too big to take home as a souvenir, even though I think it would make great yard art.

There are Hermit Crabs almost everywhere to land in Chagos. They are the bane of shell hunters, as they claim all the good ones early.

This is a smaller Coconut Crab using a coconut shell as her home. The young Coconut Crabs use shells and coconuts for protection. The adults use claws.

Coconut Crab looking to me for protection.

Not sure why, but you sometimes see a party of Hermit Crabs up on the trees.

Met up with our old friend Wilson.

A nice shiny Cowrie shell.

When you walk around the islands the bird pass by at eye level for a look. 

Grouper, checking us out

There's a lobster (crayfish) hiding under that coral shelf.

A close up of the crayfish.


Extra low tide on the ocean side of the island

Pre-sunset view

My beach toy. Notice the clean shaven model holding it.

Georgia at anchor. The light blue is about 15 feet deep and where our anchor is. The dark blue is about 50 feet deep where we came to rest. It is very convenient that they color code the water for us.


Boobies nesting with young, fluffy white nestling in the center.

Space alien eyes

This was a less than clear day snorkeling. Mark, this black-tip reef shark, decided to start circling us. He made at least three loops around us that we could see. Needless to say, Chris managed to keep the dinghy or me safely between her and Mark.

Check the length of this Unicorn Fish's horn

A little green coral to add to the seascape

These two pictures are hard to make out, but they are of an octopus hiding among the crevices in the coral. 



It was a windy late afternoon and Mark and his friend stopped by to see if we had any shark treats to share.

The friend even wanted to show of his black tip.


The Noddies decided to take up residence on the bow pulpit.



All in all, Chagos is a pretty magical place. Glad we got the opportunity to stop by and add to the memories.


Paul