Port Elizabeth to Cape Town

This is a picture of us all bundled up as we pass Cape Agulhas, the southern most point of the African continent. The Cape of Good Hope seems to get all the popular press, but it is actually 80 miles further west and about 29 miles further north. Cape of Good Hope was also traditionally known as the the Cape of Storms. Cape Agulhas is also the separation point between the Indian Ocean and the South Atlantic Ocean. In the pic I am pointing at the Indian Ocean and Chris is looking forward to the Atlantic Ocean. I can honestly say I am not sad to see the Indian Ocean in the rearview mirror. One cruising friend of ours refers to the Indian Ocean as the Adult Ocean. We've done about 4,760nm since we left Langkawi, Malaysia in early February on the eastern side of the North Indian Ocean. All and all some interesting stops including the Maldives, Chagos, Seychelles, Mozambique and South Africa, but not the most pleasant sailing we've done.

The clouds flowing off Table Mountain on our approach to Cape Town

We left Port Elizabeth around 1:00pm on Friday and arrived at Cape Town around 10:00am on Monday. The second night out was rough and a bit ugly. We unfortunately had a 3:00am unintentional jibe (when the main sail flies uncontrollably over from one side to the other). It was at a watch change and the discussion of reefing or taking the main down were in progress. Question answered - take it down. The preventer was on (holds the boom to one side to prevent a jibe). The Spectra climbing strap that held the preventer turning block near the bow snapped.  This slowed, but did not stop the jibe.

The preventer line then proceeded to tear out the pulpit stainless steel leg. Not pretty, but at least no one was hurt. This week on the Atlantic ARC crossing a cruising sailor was killed by an unintentional jibe. Put it on the 'gotta repair this stuff in Cape Town' list.

As we approached the entrance to Cape Town Harbour we saw these kayakers stopping to gawk at the bobbing whales in front of them.

Surprisingly, and a little scarily, as we entered the harbour we saw about half a dozen whales, I believe small humpbacks, inside the harbour. Here are two following us after I turned away to avoid them. These guys get up to 60 tons, not small creatures.

Well its nice to be in Cape Town knowing we have a few months of no more passages!

Paul

East London to Port Elizabeth

 

Made the 135 mile run to from East London to Port Elizabeth when we saw an open, but short, weather window.  We left at midnight motoring into light winds and a bit of bouncy seas. Headed almost straight offshore for 12 or 14 miles to get into the Agulhas Current sleigh ride. Near shore the water temperature is 60*F. In the current it is 75*F. We had a good sail all day with the current pushing us 4 or 5 kts and decent downwind sailing. By about early afternoon we had to gybe and turn toward land. Made Port Elizabeth around 9:30pm. 

We left East London with two other boats, our friends on Hylite and the South African catamaran Blikke. The photo above is Blikke approaching Port Elizabeth at sunset. PE is a very industrial and busy port. Continuous freighter movements inside and outside the port. The yacht club locals greeted us in the dark to take our dock lines. We are in a berth sized for a boat half our size. A few hours after we settled into our berth the SW winds started, so it was nice to be secure and tied up.

The yacht club seems to have multiple names, including Nelson Mandela Yacht Club or Gqeberha (includes a glottal click) Yacht Club. The docks are pretty run down and the boats get covered with manganese dust from all the bulk carrier loading. The winds are howling from the west right now, so we'll sit it out and hope they turn easterly soon.

Paul